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1. The first and easiest thing to do, is to try driving
around with your doors LOCKED (or unlocked if you always
drive around with them locked). And then see how it shuts off.
If you can definitively say your car shuts off all the
time when the doors are locked. (Or unlocked), this
may be a $ufficient temporary fix! Hey- the price is right.
By the way, this means that one of your locks, tubing, or diaphragms,
has a leak.
1A. If you *REALLY* want to troubleshoot your vacuum system
and find out which lock has a leak, you're going to have to
get this:
Mityvac Vacuum Test Kit - $64.95
You
can get it here @ Performance Products ,
With this, you will be able to test each SUCK and BLOW (lock
and unlock)
Once you have figured out which one which one has the leak,
a quick hack is to plug it up with a golf tee. This means of
course that when you lock or unlock your doors, you will have
to operate this one manually. But once done, you shouldn't have
to get out of your car to shut off.
There is two vacuum tubes running everywhere in the W123. In
my car, they are yellow and green stripes on the tubes.
This is a great diagram showing the , from Performance Product
mag.
Click to Zoom in
We'll deal with some of the most common trouble areas:
1. Each Door (1-2)
2. Fuel Door (In the passenger side rear door) (3)
3. The Trunk Lock (4)
If you take off your door, and sometimes you can see that the
rubber has wore away and is no longer air-worthy. you can buy
new ones, or buy a new one.
$21-$28
Vacuum Control Valve - 123.133 - up to 036516
Left
Front Door
Master
3-Vacuum Line Conn.
Note:
add 1 x 116 805 01 14 Hold Down
1 x 116 805 02 32 To Latch
VACUUM SWITCH
Master Vacuum Switch
Or it might be this:
You will find these in the bottom of each door, (Front/Right
- Rear Right & Left) While you are looking at these, lock
and unlock the door. You will see the white part move up and
down, and you will see a little rubber diaphragm in there, if
it's cracked, or you can hear it hissing, then you need to replace
it!!!
These are about $35 each, and it's practically plug in play.
When I replace mine, I will post some pics..
Trunk
$35 new (what's the point of used?) I suppose you can buy these
used, just to get by, but more often than not, they are probably
in about the same shape as yours that just failed. They are
all about the same age; really old!
Fuel Door: (Gas Flap Diagram)
Once you've troubleshooted this, or want to try something else,
go back to the Dieseling Index
or try these:
2. Vacuum Tubing/3-way connectors/Valves
3. Shut-off Valve @
Injection
4. Shut-off
Valve @ Ignition
5. A/C System Diaphragms
6. Vacuum Pump - Refurbishing
Or you can just get my syringe
hack.
More Coming Soon! (As soon as I figure out how
to do this or write up what I already have)
If you can provide some
good pictures and/or how to DIY, submit!
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